In the ever-evolving landscape of fashion, the concept of "being seen" holds a significant and transformative place. It transcends mere visibility and ventures into the realm of identity, expression, and social connection. Western fashion, with its dynamic history and recent resurgence in popularity, serves as a powerful medium through which individuals articulate their connection to the land, aspirations, and values. Let's discuss what it means to “be seen”, the historical truth of diverse populations on the Western frontier, and how today’s leaders are shaping a more inclusive and authentic society in Western fashion.
Growing up, I used to hear the elders in my community exclaim to one another, “It’s good to see you!” and the response would be, “It’s good to be seen!”. Such a simple exchange, yet there is a deeper meaning within the subtext. Being seen denotes that a person physically sees another, but the connotation is one of acknowledgement, respect, and oftentimes joy. Being seen proffers a level of humanity and belonging. It is the basis on which we can build interpersonal connections. Over the years, fashion has advanced with the inclusion of different types of people in advertising and runway shows, and such a transition has allowed for different types of people to see themselves in mainstream media. Brands and designers are recognizing the importance of diverse representation, not just in terms of race and ethnicity, but also size, gender identity, and ability. It has allowed viewers to connect with the brand on a subconscious level. This representation fosters a greater sense of self-worth and belief that it is possible to live in a world where differences are celebrated.
Historically, the mainstream images promoting Western fashion have predominantly featured Caucasian models. A quick google image search with the words “cowboy boots” shows this to be true. Today, social media platforms have democratized fashion, allowing diverse country western influencers to showcase their style to a global audience. Each digital persona serves as a testament to the obscured, yet rich tapestry of people in the western wear sector, but how was this accomplished in the days of western expansion and “manifest destiny”? Simply put, it wasn’t. People of all races were present on the frontier, and it is estimated that 1 in 4 cowboys were of African descent. This number is likely greater, but the presence of people of color was minimized to continue a narrative of European dominance and control – this includes intentional omissions from historical literature, census counts, movies, and paintings. Furthermore, the cowboy became the quintessential symbol of the American frontier and evoked a spirit of freedom. A Black or Brown cowboy as the face of the movement would stir rebellion against widespread oppression rather than promote the social ideology of a newly independent nation.
Today’s leaders in western fashion and culture are shaping a more inclusive and authentic view of the country western aesthetic. They are amplifying the existence and presence of Black and Brown people who have been overshadowed by their White counterparts. For example, Pharrell’s western-themed Louis Vuitton collection, Netflix’ “Concrete Cowboy”, and Beyonce’s country album, all capture a truth that is gradually coming into awareness for many – there is yet another part of American history worth exploring and it is that of the Black and Brown cowboys. Furthermore, my western clothing brand, The Original Cowboy Club, aims to honor the many people of color, past and present, who worked on the frontier and helped build the economy of our nation. This amplification is not only about rectifying past oversights but also about creating a future where everyone can see truth reflected in cultural and fashion narratives. The dynamic interplay between history and modern advocacy emphasizes the importance of representation in shaping a more equitable and vibrant fashion industry that honors all voices and stories. Once we begin to see the diversity of each unique contributor on the frontier of life in both our daily lives and the fashion industry, we can begin to see ourselves and give the opportunity for others to be seen.
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References:
- Nodjimbadem, K. (2017, February 13). The Lesser-Known History of African-American Cowboys. Smithsonianmag.com. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/lesser-known-history-african-american-cowboys-180962144/
- Katz, W. L. (2012). Black Indians: A Hidden Heritage. Simon and Schuster.
- Guilbault, L. (2024) Pharrell Williams Pays Tribute to the American Western in Third Show for Louis Vuitton, Vogue Business. https://www.voguebusiness.com/story/fashion/pharrell-williams-pays-tribute-to-the-american-western-in-third-show-for-louis-vuitton